Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds gather.
It is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with plump mauve grapes on a sprawling allotment situated between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just north of the city downtown.
"I've seen people hiding illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He's pulled together a informal group of cultivators who produce vintage from several discreet city grape gardens tucked away in back gardens and community plots across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an formal title so far, but the collective's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Vineyards Across the World
So far, the grower's plot is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which features more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of the French capital's historic artistic district neighbourhood and over three thousand grapevines overlooking and within Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them all over the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Vineyards help cities remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces protect land from construction by establishing long-term, yielding farming plots within urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a result of the soils the vines grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who tend the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the charm, community, landscape and history of a city," adds the president.
Unknown Eastern European Grapes
Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting left in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack once more. "This is the mystery Eastern European variety," he says, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Efforts Across Bristol
The other members of the group are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of vintage from France and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from about 50 plants. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a basket of fruit slung over her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her household in 2018. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already survived three different owners," she says. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can continue producing from this land."
Sloping Gardens and Traditional Winemaking
A short walk away, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established over one hundred fifty vines situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."
Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is picking bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can make interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than £7 a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually make good, natural wine," she says. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an old way of producing wine."
"When I tread the fruit, the various wild yeasts come off the surfaces into the juice," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and then add a lab-grown culture."
Challenging Conditions and Inventive Approaches
A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to Europe. But it is a challenge to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"My goal was creating Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable local weather is not the sole problem faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to install a barrier on